Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Info about Kinshasa

I hope you find this information helpful. To anyone going to the the DRC, specially wives joining there husbands, don't forget to join the International Woman's Club. If you telephone anyone of the Embassy they will tell you where the meetings are held once a month . (Usually at the American Embassy) It is a good way to meet new friends and get up to date information. I know that they are working on a new "Guide to Kinshasa", which they will be selling for one of the many charity's they are involved with....I found the Guide very helpful as you will get more information on local Doctors , Dentist etc...
:)

This once modern African city has suffered from the decay and stagnation caused during the conflict in the country. Modern buildings such as the CCIC (Centre Commercial International Congolese) lay unused and abandoned. The private sector is making progress. Much of the city is now in the grips of another war, this time a commercial war between the mobile phone companies. Billboards, flags and even entire buildings are adorned with the slogans of the different operators.

Kinshasa's infrastructure is largely dysfunctional; electricity is reliable only in Gombe (the city center where most expats live) with other parts of the city experiencing power outages several times weekly. Running water can be found in many parts of the city, although Gombe is again the only area that enjoys a fairly consistent level of service. While certain central roads are paved, most neighborhood roads are dirt only. None of the roads are well maintained.

How to Get there !
(Just by the way I used "Jefferey's Travel" Kinshasa for all my travel arrangements-Mohomadi was always very helpful)
South African Airways, Kenyan Airways and Ethiopian airlines and Royal air Maroc each have a number of flights per week from their hubs in Johannesburg, Nairobi, Addis Ababa and Casablanca.

Connections to Europe can be made with Air France from Paris, France and SN Brussels from Brussels in Belgium. Hewa Bora also offered flights to and from Europe until they were placed upon the EU's no-fly blacklist.

The Kinshasa airport used to have a terrible reputation for corrupt officials asking for bribes. They have improved things recently and it is quite manageable. Just follow everyone else and try not to look like a tourist! A yellow fever vaccination certificate is essential. Watch out for being mobbed by volunteer 'helpers' once you are outside the airport, who will want to carry your bags in return for tips. You will also probably asked to give a bribe in order to through police and customs in all other cities.

Keep in mind that when returning to the airport to leave you can not drive your car or take a cab onto the airport property without paying for parking / access $5 or $10.
You now have to pay $50 Airport Tax when leaving the country.

A taxi into town will probably cost you $30-$50 (usually without air conditioning!). It is an hour's drive into the centre of Kinshasa. Best is to get a shuttle offered by one of the travel companies on the right outside the arrivals door


The railroad of Congo once covered the entire country during colonial times, but has fallen in to heavy disuse. While there is a central train station in Kinshasa, train service is erratic at best and does not run to many destinations for tourists. Tickets are usually only able to be bought the day of travel shortly before the train arrives and can prove to be difficult to get.

By car

Apart from the road Matadi to Kinshasa a car is no means for overland travel. You might be successful with a 4x4 in the upper northern region (Bangassou - Nia Nia - Isiro) and maybe the axis Kinshasa - Lumumbashi. All other towns are accessible only by air transport or boat.

By boat


You can arrive by boat from Brazzaville, if you have a visa. There are speed boats that go quickly for a limited number of people, or you can take the barge with local merchants if you have time. Ask to go to "the Beach", which is the ferry terminal.

Getting around......


Officially there is a city bus and it has been bolstered recently by some older buses from Belgium being gifted to Kinshasa to improve the routes. This system pales in comparison to the "taxi" system that has risen organically to serve the needs of the people of Kinshasa.

Essentially, these taxis are small buses. They run set routes between embarkation points that are the "stops". The cost between these various points is usually around 250 Francs. If one's destination is through multiple points, different taxis will need to be boarded to complete the route, making the system take a good deal of time during busy traffic hours. People waiting at the stops will move their hands in a variety of gestures to signal which direction they are going. A taxi will then stop and pick up someone if they are going in the same direction and have space in the taxi.

This system works well for the locals. For visitors and foreigners, it can be quite difficult as one needs to know the hand signs, have knowledge of the routes, be ready to sit in cramped, hot vehicles with many other people, and deal with the potential dangers of these vehicles as many are barely road-worthy. Traveling through this manner absolutely requires local help for those unfamiliar with the system. One will also have to speak French or Lingala as the drivers do not speak English.

There are also traditional taxis for hire. They are available for single runs or can be hired by the day. This can be a tricky business and should be handled with care (especially at the airport) as there are those will take people to remote locations and rob them. Again, help from a local is best or using drivers that others in the area have past experience with and trust. Rates for these taxis vary widely and if one does not appear to be of African descent, there will also be an automatic premium added.

To See


Go see the "bonobos" by Lac de ma Vallée, Chutes de Zongo in Bas Congo and Bombo Lumene on the road to Kikwit. A BBQ on a sandbank on the Congo River is definitely also a must. Renting a boat for a day with a driver and all the gear (tables, chairs, a suntent and a BBQ) will set you back around 150$ at the Yacht Club Kinshasa. The boat can take 8 people, so if you share the cost it is quite affordable. A truly unforgettable experience if you don't forget the meat and the Primus! You can contact Mr. Nsimba (+243 81 3634273) at the Yacht Club to reserve a boat.

Don't forget to get some arts in Le marché des valeurs, sometimes called marché des voleurs... the first calling means market of value, the second in changing only one letter means market of thieves. Be prepared to haggle and don't pay the initial asking price that will be at least 60-75% of the final price if not more. For some more upscale art you can go to the Academie des Beaux Arts on Avenue Pierre Mulele (formerly Avenue 24 Novembre) or to Symphonie des Arts: towards Kintambo on the Boulevard du 30 Juin, turn right after the elephant when you see the barrier on your right... then it's on your left hand accross from the big colonial villa.

A more relax and fun way to buy street art is to have a beer at Surcouf: it's on the street off the boulevard 30 Juin towards Justice off the INSS building. Sit at a table and have a drink (Primus is recommended) and the artists will come and show all kinds of artworks all the time. The same rule on negotiating applies as at Marché des valeurs.
Kinkole

Kinkole is a small village in the eastern part of the city's rural area. It's on the RN1 (Boulevard Lumumba), further than the airport. It has a nice restaurant area where you can enjoy all the local food on a terrace. A lot of people come here to relax so there's a lot of people trying to get you into their business. If you go closer to the river there's a fisherman market where food from the river is brought. Be careful if you want to take pictures, you'll probably have to pay someone first as this is considered the international border.
Jardin d'Eden

Jardin d'Eden is a restaurant and music bar by the shores of the Nsele river, in the eastern part of the city's rural area. It is further than Kinkole, after the airport. There is a really relaxing athmosphere there. You can eat, listen to the live band playing Congolese classiscs or even take a boat on the river Nsele. The food and drinks are affordable for middle class.

To Do


Plenty of cyber cafes exist, so don't worry about staying connected.

The Association Belgo-Congolais (ABC) rents out videos (VHS and DVD).

Go for a walk/jog along the river in front of the British /German embassies.

Go to church on a Sunday morning like most of the locals do.
Learn

Lingala is the local language spoken in this region beyond French. Learning a bit goes a long way to befriending locals.
Buy

The good supermarkets are the following: Peloustore located on the boulevard (big orange/yellow building with green letters). Good vegetables and all dry goods that you can find in Belgium. Expresse located on the boulevard, a little off from Peloustore. Here you can find good vegetables and the best "charcuterie", cold cutt meat? City Market If you turn on the corner of Expresse you will see this large supermarket on your left hand. It has the best bread in town. Alternatively across from it you will find excellent bread (and more) in Patisserie Nouvelle, which also has good lunch possibilities. Hasson et Freres located just off the roundabout near the central station: the street just before turning on the boulevard: this is definitly the best place to get your meat: the "filet pur" is the best meat you can get!
Eat


Lots of restaurants for 'expats' exist, where you can pay in dollars but it is very expensive. Don't be surprised to pay up to $20 for a pizza (and $40 at the hotel for one).




* Mama Colonel, Bandal. An excellent restaurant. The menu has only 4 items - chicken, fish, fries and plantain - but they are barbecued to perfection.



The freshwater prawns from the Congo river are incredible - called Cossa Cossa on menus (as distinct from imported saltwater prawns which are Gambas) - generally served with a garlic and chili (pili-pili) butter sauce. A plate of these will set you back around $25-$40 dollars depending where you eat.

* 3615, on the main Boulevard (next door to the Peloustore supermarket). Has an outdoor area as well as an airconditioned indoor area; and excellent food - from pizza to steaks and fish. Average price for a main dish plus drink costs around US$20.

* Cercle Elaeis/ La Paillotte. Traditional and international food. Outdoor dining with view on the pool.
* Chez Gaby. Portuguese-style. At the upper end of the mid-range - the food is varied and excellent and if you want to splash out, you can also order imported items like foie gras and european wines.
* Chez Philo. Offers a number of Congolese dishes on the menu as well as the standard belgian-style fare.
* La Piscine. Outdoor tables arranged around a swimming pool-great settings and good food in the $20-$30 range if you choose restrainedly.
* Girassol (just off the Boulevard), turn across from Sonas, on the corner where Icare travel is located; take the most right street; it's on your right. The best cossa cossa in town!
* Le Roi du Cossa 220 Ave Mpolo (just off the Boulevard), Gombe. A Portuguese restaurant is always a good bet for seafood, and this is no exception.

* Pizerria Opoeta and Greg's bar: on the road towards the golf course: closest thing to an international pub. Good pizza's as well.
* Taj: the best Indian restaurant in town, on top of the oldest highrise of Kinshasa: you will find it just of rond point forestcom.
* Au plein vent: traditional fondue restaurant with a spectacular view. It is located at the top of a building on the road along the port.

Splurge

The more expensive restaurants are in Gombe.

* Caf-Conc. The most expensive restaurant in the DRC, allegedly!
* Ciboulette. Second most expensive.. it's in the Elais compound on your right hand
* Chez Nicolas
* Golf Club
* Grand Hotel - very ordinary and overpriced hotel food. $25 for very good breakfast buffet. Food and service at the poolside bar have been improved recently and are not too bad.

Drink

Local beer - Turbo King is a darker beer, regular lagers are Primus (which is the best local beer, brewed by the local Heineken brewery) and Skol. European Mutzig comes in smaller bottles ! Lots of expensive French and South African wine available in restaurants and supermarkets.

Kinshasa becomes alive most nights when residents head to Matonge, a place filled with dancing bars, restaurants and night clubs. Lately Bandal and Bonmarche are the more popular "quartiers" to visit the local bars and "discotheques". Go to a local nightclub and learn how to dance Congolese rhythms. Get ready to shake your booty! For those that prefer to stay in Gombe, the following offer good possibilities:

* Ibiza Bar Jazz bar for live music. Dancing starts around midnight. Small, smokey atmosphere, a really proper old-fashioned jazz bar.

* Mambo
* Standing - small western-style bar and disco.
* VIP Bar - larger western-style disco - mirror and disco-ball on the ceiling ! On the main boulevard close to 3615
* 3615 vibey but sleazy nightclub on the boulevard. Banned to UN personnel because it is full of prostitutes.


Water

Do not drink from the tap. Bottled water is readily available.

Hotels




* Hotel Memling, tel. +243 817001111, [1]. Probably the best and second most expensive hotel in town. Wireless Internet throughout, nice pool, bar and restaurants. Expect to pay $285/night plus $30 for breakfast and $30 for 24 hour access to Internet ($75 for week). Hertz car rental are at the hotel, along with mobile phone companies, gift shops and the usual souvenirs.

* Grand Hotel, [2]. - The Grand Hotel is the other fancy hotel in town - well located near the river, embassies and the Presidential residence; it is frequented by locals as well as internationals assisting with the DRC's transition. It claims to be DRC's only 5* hotel, but the only 5* feature is the price ($300+/night plus tax). Extremely expensive and not particularly good food, with slow service. The are two accommodation blocks. The old one is now being completely refurbished. Slow wireless internet is available for $70/week.

* Hotel Pyramide, [3]. Hotel Pyramide is a small, but luxury hotel, about 5 km out of the center of Kinshasa. All rooms have a bathroom with Jacuzzi, warm water, hairdryer and a Fridge. In march 2008 however, there was only cold water available and in insufficient quantities to take a proper shower or bath. Most rooms are very spacious (some are like a small apartment) and dispose of flatscreen TVs and one or two air-conditioning units. The hotel has no fax. Internet was said to be available but was this not tested (there was a PC at the reception desk with internet connection, but not for residents). The hotel also has an e-mail address, but the on-duty receptionist was unable to access it ...

* Faden House tel +243 81 99 43 331 or email faden.house@yahoo.fr. A small guesthouse which offers a welcome contrast to the awful Grand Hotel, across the street. Great location in Gombe, a block away from the River Congo (great walking/jogging route) and many of the European embassies. About the same price as the Grand Hotel, but here the price includes free wifi in all the rooms, and no harassment from drunk foreign soldiers or local prostitutes. A calm oasis in Kinshasa. Some English spoken. Only 9 rooms (avoid rooms 1 and room 3). Also a well-used conference facility, and the quality of service deteriorates when staff are occupied with a function there. There are small fridges in the rooms, but no safe deposit facility; and only a couple of French/Congolese TV channels.

* Le Voyageur definitely the best hotel in town, located next to Elais; unfortunately it tends to be fully booked well in advance. All Elais amenities can be used.


Stay healthy


Don't drink the local water. Bottled water seems to be cheap enough but sometimes hard to find for a good price. The best way is if you are staying in a upscale hotel that provides it with the room just tip the housekeeping staff to get extra bottles put in your room (usually if you tell them while giving them the money that works the best, and after the first 2 days of asking for the water you usually don't have to worry about telling them anymore, just give them the $5 a day).

Make sure you have all required vaccinations - i.e. yellow fever, typhoid, etc..

Mosquitoes can be a problem in the entire city. Malaria medication should be taken.
Stay safe.......put on loads of repellent..it helps

It is highly recommended that you have someone with you at all times that is a local (besides while being in your hotel). Cab drivers will usually stay with you too when going to local shops and making quick stops and will serve as your translator if you get a good one. Be careful with any equipment you have with you such as digital cameras and video equipment. Be careful also of what you take pictures of. Even if they say no photos only at the airport and of government buildings, a lot of times the police and UN people will get upset if you are taking videos at other places where technically it is supposed to be ok to do. Just be sure to have plenty of locals with you that know what they are doing and can provide security and a way out if you get stuck or in trouble. Follow their advice and pay attention when out and about. When in doubt about taking a photo of something don't until you get very clear instructions that it is ok. Don't keep cameras in open view unless you've been cleared to take a photo (which is just like taking a photo to them it seems). Also be prepared for hostility and positive reactions when taking photos.

If you are approached by people claiming to be police, be wary. If they are not in uniform, they are probably not police but are most likely hoping to relieve you of your money and valuables. A common tactic is for a group of men in a car to show a fake police identity card and ask you to go with them to the police station. Do not get in the car; just walk away. Be prepared to run. Never lose your temper, but keep negociating in a friendly way; in the end, they will give up.

Recent road scams have included a group of fake police officers in an unmarked 4x4 vehicle that will pull over unsuspecting people driving alone in cars, then forcibly take them in to their vehicle, drive them out to the country, rob them of everything and leave them stranded. While the main targets have been UN staff in obvious white UN vehicles, all foreigners driving should be wary of this group or others operating like them. For general safety, people should never drive alone in vehicles, especially after dark.

Schools


Jewels International School http://jisk.info/
American School - TASOK http://www.tasok.cd

1 comment:

Johan said...

Hello from Holland